Sunday, 20 January 2013

Christmas Holidays - Part II

So, after Christmas Day - Matt's standard 'well that's Christmas over then' really did feel appropriate here. We'd got the Christmassy bit out of the way - now we could focus on the summer holiday part of the trip!

After leaving Abel Tasman we headed inland via the Nelson Lakes National Park, Murchison and the longest Swingbridge in New Zealand over to the wild West Coast of the South Island, to our next destination - Punakaiki.
Miniature waterfall spotted on a short walk
in Nelson Lakes National Park - what a cool effect
The longest swingbridge - spot Matt!
Beautiful sunset over those wild west coast waves
Punakaiki is famous for its pancake rocks - stacks of rocks out to sea, which unsurprisingly look a lot like stacks of pancakes. We thought they were pretty awesome, as well as the walk we did through National Park no. 4 of the trip so far, Paparoa National Park.

Lots of pancake like rocks
We decided that four National Parks just wasn't enough, so we soon headed off to our next stop - Arthur's Pass National Park. Arthur's Pass village itself is the highest settlement in New Zealand, which meant quite a steep road to get to it. Carrie took the challenge with aplomb and we soon found ourselves up at c.900m, parked up for free in a Department of Conservation campsite ready for some real Kiwi tramping (hiking).

The next morning we headed straight to the DoC info centre to be told that the hike we had planned was not advisable given the weather conditions - but luckily, being in NZ you don't need to go far to find some different weather, so we drove on another ten minutes along the pass to a highly recommended alternative walk and found ourselves (after a lot of uphill) with some views to die for!
Matt looking ever so slightly camp
whilst displaying NZ for us!
Even higher (c.1800m) we got some great panoramas (and a bit chilly).

A little bit less camp than the other Cope
Displaying a sandwich AND New Zealand
All that walking got us a bit hot and bothered (after we'd come down off the blowy top of the mountain) so we parked up for a second night on the pass at another free DoC site. By now, I was feeling like we needed showers (generally lacking in free sites!) so we came up with the brilliant plan of swimming the alpine lake, then soaping down, followed by a water bottle spray shower. Lovely.
Matt pretending its not that cold
Before settling down for a bit of evening reading...

Yes, there's a chance I packed too many library books!
The next day, the Tiki Tour continued as we came down from the mountain to the Canterbury plains, and Christchurch. As many readers will know, Christchurch was hit by two devastating earthquakes in 2010/11, with the second earthquake in February 2011 killing 185 people, and levelling much of the historic and prosperous city centre.

We decided that visiting should be a priority as we had heard a lot about the positive work that was underway to rebuild the city, under such difficult circumstances.

First stop - the botanical gardens for some very English rose sniffing...
The most delicious smelling rose ever - fact
After some deliberation, we then decided to take the museum run Red Zone Tour which took us around the central city, and into still cordoned off areas, to learn more about what had happened, and what was planned for the future.
185 chairs for 185 lives lost
The tour was incredibly interesting and worthwhile - having grown up in a country without the threat of earthquakes, volcanoes and extreme weather it was sobering to see what nature can do. But inspiring to see how a community can work together to come back. Good luck Christchurch!

Matt saying good luck from atop a penny
farthing (it had been too long off the bike)
in the museum!
Onwards, and to a short pit stop in Amberley for the night, accompanied by beer tasting and chip/wedges eating.
The pale ale was the best
The following day, we continued up the East Coast to Kaikoura - home of whales, dolphins, seals and albatross. Having parked up at the campsite, we strolled down to the beach to see what was going on. Only to see a school of dolphins (do they come in a school??) having a play in the sea just a few metres from the beach. We were all ready to get in the sea with them, but were informed that the strong undertow might make our playing a little more dangerous (not being quite such able swimmers as the dolphins). So we enjoyed watching our amphibious friends instead.
Real dolphins watching!
The rest of the day was spent walking the Kaikoura peninsula - a beautiful hike with the backdrop of mountains and the sea all the way round.

A cheeky pint half way round helped things along too!
Ahhhh - lovely
Our day in Kaikoura also happened to be 31st December. So we had a fantastic evening of a Matt special barbeque, a bottle of sparkling wine and some beers in the local pub to see in the new year.
Definitely not vegetarian
A bit sore headed the next morning we didn't make it far up the coast to our next stop, for some freedom camping on the beach. We spotted some seals, Matt tried to fish for crayfish (fail) and a lot of chilling out!
An elegant profile (for a seal)
Gorgeous sunset over the rocks
Suitably refreshed we continued on up the East Coast, with a plan to do a gorge walk which we had heard was worth getting off the beaten track for, between Kaikoura and Blenheim. Of course getting off the beaten track in NZ, really does mean there will be a lack of a beaten track read gravel road). So after 10km of driving on this...

... we arrived at the trailhead. It was definitely worth it! A beautiful walk along (and in) the river we reached a narrow deserted gorge - beautiful.
Walking in the river was a lot easier than rock hopping!
I was up to my chest at this point!
And onwards to Blenheim... For those who haven't heard of Blenheim itself, you might have heard of the Marlborough region...  I was once told by an Australian colleague that if you're ever in doubt of what wine to order, Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc would always be a good bet. I have lived by that advice for many a London meal/pub visit so was a teensy bit excited to finally make it to the Marlborough region itself. I wasn't disappointed!

Having left our serious racing bikes in Auckland we thought best to pool our combined leg strength for a day of wine tasting by hiring a tandem. Never people to do things by halves, having got ourselves saddled up we started the day at 9.45 (15 minutes before cellar opening) and commenced an epic adventure of visiting 9 vineyards, and sampling a total of 48 different wines. Needless to say, a great day was had by all (us included).
This was about half way through.
A little merry.
Team Cope doing laps of the campsite at the end of the day
Definitely no sore heads the next day (no, really) we finished off our South Island sojourn with a night in another DoC site, this time at a beautiful Marlborough Sounds bay, just a few kilometres from the ferry at Picton. Swimming, reading and mussel catching confirmed how much we had fallen in love with the South Island, and how much we can't wait to return!

Of course, we haven't forgotten how much we love the North Island too, so we fitted in a return to the site we stayed at en route to Wellington on our down to the South, in Tongariro National Park, home of Mount Doom, Mount Tongariro and Mount Ruapehu.
Matt considering casting his ring into Mt Doom...
Sad that the holiday is over, but what a holiday
(so we're still smiling!)

Sunday, 13 January 2013

Christmas Holidays - AKA Summer!

All we've heard (and drooled over) at work for the last four months is how much fun the Kiwi Summer is; a magical combination of a country that loves to get away, the Christmas relaxation, the start of the good weather ("But hasn't it been good so far?" we kept asking) and the school summer holidays.

Mathematically, this does indeed all add up to an entire country having one big jolly. My boss took off 5 weeks. Sarah's took off 3 weeks. Sarah and I, the hard-done-by authors of this blog, squeezed in a two week break. Our trips so far have been squeezed into long weekends so we've never really got more than 5 hours from Auckland. So this was the big one - in total we covered 1553 miles in Carrie by bombing down from Auckland at the top of the North Island down to the Capital, Wellington, to catch the 3 hour ferry across the Cook Strait for our 2 week Top o' the South Island Trip. Let the 30degC Christmas begin! 
A Sarah drive-by of the cows. Many cows.
The south island has a bigger landmass,
but only 25% of the people...
Our first stop on the South Island was Nelson, home to Mark & Janelle, and their little lad, Emmett. I met Mark and Janelle whilst working in Japan, we ended up leaving at the same time and moved to London. It's been just over two years since we last saw them (with a little baby bump in Janelle) so it was great to catch up at last. And park in the deserted school grounds they work at, for free. Also great. Time to light the barby and crack open a few cold ones!

As usual, Mark was up before the first sparrow of the day had farted - and boy did he have an adventure packed day planned for us. First up, borrowing the neighbours sea kayaks to explore Nelson's bays, marina and lighthouse. Dodging the divebombing nesting birds on the way... Great to get some truffle hunting in again, like the Japan days!
Truffles!
Leaving the ladies to have coffee, look out for rays swimming under the jetty and keep an eye out for Daddy. Wee-man Emmett is a cool kid indeed.
Trying to spot Daddy
Next up on Cocho's magical mystery tour was a short hike up one of the local hills (Emmett and I raced them all to the top in his stroller) to the centre of New Zealand, geographically speaking. 
A Traditional Christmas Scene
All aboard, and down round the bay - to call in at the local berry farm to pick some berries for Janelle's Pav (Pavlova) for their family Christmas. The bushes had been picked bare, so we had to console ourselves with real fruit ice cream - crushed berries mixed in with vanilla ice cream. The queue was hot, long and tantalising. We all wanted our ice creams STAT, no more so than this man. Boy was he happy to stick his face in an ice cream, and so were we!
Yummy, yummy, yummy, I've got love in my tummy
Ice creams finished by us adults, and remnants wiped off a very happy Emmett, we bundled back in the car and headed out to Mapua Wharf to cool off...
5, 4, 3, 2, 1 - JUMP!
The sea was nice, as today was so hot!
Who wears short shorts?
But real heat can only be stifled with a beer. And the closer you drink it to the brewery, the better. These travelled all of 5 metres - and tasted amazing. My first proper full pint in about 9 months, too!
Missing a certain Feral, Nick, Angus and Ollie!
And the best way to end the day? Fish and chips - in one massive open platter to share between the five of us. Yum!
Thanks for hosting us guys, we had such a lovely time!
Next day was Christmas Eve, so we headed further West to the Abel Tasman National Park, to a quiet little campsite right at the end of the road to get settled in for 3 nights. How's about this for a view?
A Christmas Eve Sunset
We were trying to feel Christmassy - honest - but it's surprisingly difficult when the weather's not cold. It's amazing what a seasonal celebration it is... Nevertheless, our campervan had tinsel in the front and back, snowflakes in the windows, santa hats on the seats (and us), christmas cards from friends and family - and even a little Christmas Tree! So, come Christmas Morning we set up camp on the beach with our pressies to open.
The tree is actually 6ft tall, but with massive presents underneath
And we were soon in the party spirit!
This makes me look like a bug-splat on a windscreen...
Finding towel space was a challenge
Presents opened, swimming done, suntans topped up - camp was dismantled and relocated to the van-side. Time to open the wine and get the barby started!
Party dress on! Good job she got one for Christmas...
Christmas dinner was a bit of a break from tradition, with veggie kebabs and chorizo sausages for starter, butterfly chicken and jackets (with some of the trimmings) for main, followed by roasted bananas, stuffed with chocolate. YUM!
The butterfly chicken, looking a bit camp
Family was really missed during the day - we raised our glasses to you all several times!
Happy Matt
And here's the finished product... really tasty!
And bread sauce too!
Our ginger christmas cake
A brilliant Christmas Day. A break from the normal ones that's for sure!
A Christmas Collage
And we managed to make our calls home late that night on the beach too. I finished off my wine before wandering down to find a signal. My brother and his family got a relatively merry call, my parents got me on full steam as the wine set in, and then I called my Grandma. I think I spent 10 minutes rhapsodising to her about the merits of marinaded chicken. Sorry Grandma!

We paid for it the next day, - with slightly sore heads. Only one thing for it, to head off for a run along the Abel Tasman track to blow the hangover away.
One of NZ's 'Great Walks' - the Abel Tasman Coastal Track
A hot, 13 miles later - after seeing many beautiful bays and cooling off in the sea, we got back to our van - gasping for a cold shower and water!

A great way to spend Christmas, and still more than a week of holiday to go. But I'll let Sarah choose the photos and write about that!