Tuesday, 5 March 2013

Tramping the Routeburn

A long overdue blog... Sorry! For the last 6 weeks my parents have been out visiting us in Auckland and touring around New Zealand. Time spent with them, work and fitting in our Half Ironman training has been a wee bit busy - I'm sure you guys didn't mind waiting for the write-up though. 

There's too much to fit in one blog, so I'll concentrate this on one of our highlights of NZ so far - tramping the Routeburn Track, one of the country's Great Walks. The Routeburn felt amazingly isolated and equally spectacular; it's a 32km 3 day tramp through two national parks, staying in mountain huts and carrying all your own gear along the way. Early on the Wednesday morning, Sarah and I flew down to Queenstown to meet my parents who were travelling around in our little van, Carrie. After a pit stop for 3 days of food that we'd need to carry over the mountains, we were off on unsealed roads to the trail head.
Mountain valleys filled with a sea of clouds from the plane
We were all fully loaded and eager to get going. From the very first step, the scenery and trail didn't disappoint - although the long swing bridges over ravines tested Mum and Sarah's trust. Not trust in the bridge, but trust in me and my Dad to not get them swaying around...
Rule Number 1: Send Dad first
We left the first valley floor, heading up through glacial valleys to higher valleys. The area has an average annual rainfall of 7m (!) but the weather was amazing, and stayed that way. Luckily!
Team Cope
5 metres before this a sign said "Danger of rocks falling"
Dad decided this was a good place to chat!
The track was pretty quiet, as there's only a limited number of bunks at each cabin - which means views like this can be savoured and not shared...
Pretty epic!
And after about 5 hours of non-stop climbing, we were at our first night's cabin: Routeburn Falls Hut. How's this for a view?

Our cabin at Routeburn Falls, at an altitude of about 1000m
We were all pretty glad to take our packs off - and get reducing their weight. Time to start cooking and get drinking that 3l bladder of red wine. All in the name of reducing carrying weight, of course.
Feeding the masses
And after a good feed, some good wine and a damn good game of scrabble (well done Sarah, pretty hard going to beat my Dad!) it was time to watch the sunset over the valley.
Catching some rays
Life starts pretty early in the huts - with rows and rows of plastic mattresses in big wooden bunks, as soon as one person is up everyone else follows suit soon afterwards. We let the masses get on with it so we could enjoy the trail in peace.
And peace we had! Here we are heading up to
the top of Harris Saddle, the highest point of the trail
Lake Harris
The views were getting better and better as we got higher and higher...
And higher and higher...
Leaving our packs at the emergency shelter at Harris Saddle, we made a dash up to the top of Conical Hill for a look down into the Fjordland and Aspiring National Parks.
Conical Hill View
And here's one of my favourite photos from the walk - spot my Dad enjoying the view:
Silhouettes
Heading up and over the Saddle, we came down into the valley of the Hollyford River, hugging the steep valley sides the whole way. Moving from open rocks, to alpine scrub and trees, and then down into forest - with the bright Kea parrots circling overhead and checking what we were up to. Throughout the three days, every view was worthy of a Lord of the Rings shot - with Sarah probably cast as a Hobbit.
Or a dwarf. Probably a dwarf. That's less offensive.
And there we are at our hut for the second night of the tramp, at the sides of Lake Mackenzie. After a quick dip in what is some of the coldest water I've ever known, we were back inside and ready for some supper.
Lake Mackenzie Hut

And here's where I slept. 28 years old. Married. And sharing a 4 bed bunk with my wife and parents. That's just not right...
Department of Conservation luxury accommodation!
With a fantastic (I made it) Thai curry for dinner, with rehydrated nearly everything. Lush.

And to bed - for a terrible night's sleep with all 32 people in the room kept up by my Dad's snoring!  But again, the next day's views made it all worthwhile...
Slow motion falls
Hugging the valley side further, we headed along to The Divide.
Aotearoa - Land of the Long White Cloud
The first day had swing bridges and valley floors, the second was full of stunning vistas and lakes and this third and final day was defined by the waterfalls. Big big waterfalls.
A mere trickle
The Holidaymakers
Tramp nearly over, one last optional hill to climb: Key Summit. More lovely views. This is getting a bit repetitive now isn't it?
A Cope Frame
Me and the wife
And heading back down again to rejoin the trail...
Lush forest in the final kilometre
And there we are - a lot of photos in this blog, but it's been hard to whittle them down to that number. We've been lucky to have done a lot of hiking in some spectacular places around the world, but as a multi-day hike this is the winner for us. So great to be able to share it with my parents during their trip here - hopefully we'll still be tramping round mountains in 30 years too!
Routeburn Finishers 2013

Tuesday, 5 February 2013

Cycling the Coromandel

Well, we're without our campervan at the moment - so it's time to get out there exploring under our own steam. With our half-ironman training ramping up (6 weeks to go - gulp!) our legs have got some miles in them, so we decided the time was right to cycle around the Coromandel; a peninsular about an hour's drive from Auckland which is full of gorgeous beaches, towering ranges and sleepy little towns.

With a bank holiday weekend about to start, we set off on the ferry on the Saturday morning from Auckland City to Coromandel Town, with 125 miles to travel with 6450 feet in altitude to climb. Eek! Water bottles filled, lycra hoiked up, feet clipped in, and we're off.

Day 1 from Coromandel Town to Thames was a lovely, flattish ride along the coastal road. Not really much to say, and very few photos - but a lot of it looked like this:
An atypical NZ road - missing the frequent possum roadkill
Arriving in Thames was a bit odd. I came here 10 years ago as a backpacker with Al and Pete, and it turned out we were staying in exactly the same youth hostel! But then realised there was only one youth hostel in town... We were cyling with only tiny running backpacks, so off comes the day lycra and out comes the evening change of clothes and flip flops. And that's it. A pretty light three days are coming up it seems!
Turns out Sarah doesn't enjoy Jenga... I do!
Day 2 was billed as the big mileage one, with two big peaks to get over the top of before rolling into Whitianga town. It was a pretty relentless day...
Another atypical road - I'm sure there was more roadkill than this!
But our saviour could be found in the bottom of some big fresh coffee... Sarah used to scoff at me when Al, Chris and I would go for a ride and stop midway through for a pastry and a coffee. But now she gets it - proper cycling etiquette. Not sure having a nap on the table is good etiquette though...
Comfy.
Onwards, definitely upwards and fully charged - we carried on to Hahei, home of the tourist attraction that is Hot Water Beach. An inventively named beach of... hot sand, with boiling hot spring water bubbling up just either side of low tide. This section of beach is a tiny portion of a stretch of a good couple of miles, but everyone crams into the warm bits. With our bikes resting on the sand, we joined the action...
Glastonbury-a-la-Hahei
 Before jumping back on the bikes and heading North to Cathedral Cove, a gorgeous bay with stacks out at sea, small islands, caves and tunnels carved into the rock over thousands of years. it's been one of the first beaches we can swim at in a quite a few months which didn't have a huge rip or undertow running along it, time to get out of that manky lycra!
Bliss!
Cathedral Cove
Sarah stood outside the other end of Cathedral Cove, a vast roofed
cavern which stretches from one bay to the next
 Back on the bikes, and the last bit of the day to do... Up to the ferry terminal on the Whitianga River Mouth for a short trip across. One problem...
It's milking time at the local farm. Stay back...
 But we made it!
Ready for the 1 minute ferry ride across to Whitianga
 And we're there, day 2 of 3 complete - most of the miles done, with just the biggest hill of the lot still to do... Time to relax, find a steak and ale house and enjoy the evening sunshine. Tick, tick and tick.
This picture makes me worryingly happy
 No sore heads in the morning, as two beers pretty much made us fall asleep in the pub (plus the chicken wings, steaks, extra sides, and massive ice cream sundae. Hey, a man needs to eat) So, the only thing left is to call in at the beautiful bays and get back to Coromandel Town by 4pm.
But these big boys are in our way.
Chin up Sarah...
Nearly at the top...
Boom! Worth it for the views, and for the amazing downhill...
 We've been saving a visit to the Coromandel for the right occasion, and it didn't disappoint. Such a great ride, lovely roads and I even got a bit of peace and quiet from Sarah on the ferry on the way home...
But she still had to cycle home at the other end!

Sunday, 20 January 2013

Christmas Holidays - Part II

So, after Christmas Day - Matt's standard 'well that's Christmas over then' really did feel appropriate here. We'd got the Christmassy bit out of the way - now we could focus on the summer holiday part of the trip!

After leaving Abel Tasman we headed inland via the Nelson Lakes National Park, Murchison and the longest Swingbridge in New Zealand over to the wild West Coast of the South Island, to our next destination - Punakaiki.
Miniature waterfall spotted on a short walk
in Nelson Lakes National Park - what a cool effect
The longest swingbridge - spot Matt!
Beautiful sunset over those wild west coast waves
Punakaiki is famous for its pancake rocks - stacks of rocks out to sea, which unsurprisingly look a lot like stacks of pancakes. We thought they were pretty awesome, as well as the walk we did through National Park no. 4 of the trip so far, Paparoa National Park.

Lots of pancake like rocks
We decided that four National Parks just wasn't enough, so we soon headed off to our next stop - Arthur's Pass National Park. Arthur's Pass village itself is the highest settlement in New Zealand, which meant quite a steep road to get to it. Carrie took the challenge with aplomb and we soon found ourselves up at c.900m, parked up for free in a Department of Conservation campsite ready for some real Kiwi tramping (hiking).

The next morning we headed straight to the DoC info centre to be told that the hike we had planned was not advisable given the weather conditions - but luckily, being in NZ you don't need to go far to find some different weather, so we drove on another ten minutes along the pass to a highly recommended alternative walk and found ourselves (after a lot of uphill) with some views to die for!
Matt looking ever so slightly camp
whilst displaying NZ for us!
Even higher (c.1800m) we got some great panoramas (and a bit chilly).

A little bit less camp than the other Cope
Displaying a sandwich AND New Zealand
All that walking got us a bit hot and bothered (after we'd come down off the blowy top of the mountain) so we parked up for a second night on the pass at another free DoC site. By now, I was feeling like we needed showers (generally lacking in free sites!) so we came up with the brilliant plan of swimming the alpine lake, then soaping down, followed by a water bottle spray shower. Lovely.
Matt pretending its not that cold
Before settling down for a bit of evening reading...

Yes, there's a chance I packed too many library books!
The next day, the Tiki Tour continued as we came down from the mountain to the Canterbury plains, and Christchurch. As many readers will know, Christchurch was hit by two devastating earthquakes in 2010/11, with the second earthquake in February 2011 killing 185 people, and levelling much of the historic and prosperous city centre.

We decided that visiting should be a priority as we had heard a lot about the positive work that was underway to rebuild the city, under such difficult circumstances.

First stop - the botanical gardens for some very English rose sniffing...
The most delicious smelling rose ever - fact
After some deliberation, we then decided to take the museum run Red Zone Tour which took us around the central city, and into still cordoned off areas, to learn more about what had happened, and what was planned for the future.
185 chairs for 185 lives lost
The tour was incredibly interesting and worthwhile - having grown up in a country without the threat of earthquakes, volcanoes and extreme weather it was sobering to see what nature can do. But inspiring to see how a community can work together to come back. Good luck Christchurch!

Matt saying good luck from atop a penny
farthing (it had been too long off the bike)
in the museum!
Onwards, and to a short pit stop in Amberley for the night, accompanied by beer tasting and chip/wedges eating.
The pale ale was the best
The following day, we continued up the East Coast to Kaikoura - home of whales, dolphins, seals and albatross. Having parked up at the campsite, we strolled down to the beach to see what was going on. Only to see a school of dolphins (do they come in a school??) having a play in the sea just a few metres from the beach. We were all ready to get in the sea with them, but were informed that the strong undertow might make our playing a little more dangerous (not being quite such able swimmers as the dolphins). So we enjoyed watching our amphibious friends instead.
Real dolphins watching!
The rest of the day was spent walking the Kaikoura peninsula - a beautiful hike with the backdrop of mountains and the sea all the way round.

A cheeky pint half way round helped things along too!
Ahhhh - lovely
Our day in Kaikoura also happened to be 31st December. So we had a fantastic evening of a Matt special barbeque, a bottle of sparkling wine and some beers in the local pub to see in the new year.
Definitely not vegetarian
A bit sore headed the next morning we didn't make it far up the coast to our next stop, for some freedom camping on the beach. We spotted some seals, Matt tried to fish for crayfish (fail) and a lot of chilling out!
An elegant profile (for a seal)
Gorgeous sunset over the rocks
Suitably refreshed we continued on up the East Coast, with a plan to do a gorge walk which we had heard was worth getting off the beaten track for, between Kaikoura and Blenheim. Of course getting off the beaten track in NZ, really does mean there will be a lack of a beaten track read gravel road). So after 10km of driving on this...

... we arrived at the trailhead. It was definitely worth it! A beautiful walk along (and in) the river we reached a narrow deserted gorge - beautiful.
Walking in the river was a lot easier than rock hopping!
I was up to my chest at this point!
And onwards to Blenheim... For those who haven't heard of Blenheim itself, you might have heard of the Marlborough region...  I was once told by an Australian colleague that if you're ever in doubt of what wine to order, Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc would always be a good bet. I have lived by that advice for many a London meal/pub visit so was a teensy bit excited to finally make it to the Marlborough region itself. I wasn't disappointed!

Having left our serious racing bikes in Auckland we thought best to pool our combined leg strength for a day of wine tasting by hiring a tandem. Never people to do things by halves, having got ourselves saddled up we started the day at 9.45 (15 minutes before cellar opening) and commenced an epic adventure of visiting 9 vineyards, and sampling a total of 48 different wines. Needless to say, a great day was had by all (us included).
This was about half way through.
A little merry.
Team Cope doing laps of the campsite at the end of the day
Definitely no sore heads the next day (no, really) we finished off our South Island sojourn with a night in another DoC site, this time at a beautiful Marlborough Sounds bay, just a few kilometres from the ferry at Picton. Swimming, reading and mussel catching confirmed how much we had fallen in love with the South Island, and how much we can't wait to return!

Of course, we haven't forgotten how much we love the North Island too, so we fitted in a return to the site we stayed at en route to Wellington on our down to the South, in Tongariro National Park, home of Mount Doom, Mount Tongariro and Mount Ruapehu.
Matt considering casting his ring into Mt Doom...
Sad that the holiday is over, but what a holiday
(so we're still smiling!)