Journey 1 - Delhi to Agra
So our very first train is booked for 6.15am - we have reserved ourselves into AC Chair Class - which when we board the train turns out to be very similar to an ordinary British train - with a bit more tatti-ness around the edges. Matt gently manhandled an elderly Indian gentleman out of his seat and into another. We are both excited to find that this is no ordinary train however - as a SHTDBI Express train and sitting in what is posh class we are treated to a two course breakfast of tea, biscuits and sweets, followed by an Indian pancake stuffed with potatoes and onions, followed by toast and mango juice. Very civilised. Arriving into Agra spot on time at 8.15 we are rather pleased with ourselves. Trains in India = easy.
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| Chai, sir? |
For our second train journey we have booked the best available seats, which despite being a daytime train, are in Sleeper Class. We board the train in our designated carriage along with the rest of the subcontinent, all through one end as the other door is broken. This is not very honeymooney - it is nothing like AC Chair Class - the corridor is narrow and full of Indians trying to get off and on at the same time, plus ridiculous amounts of luggage. And ridiculous amounts of children. Everyone is pushing and shoving - its chaos. We eventually find our seats and push our way down. Only soon to be surrounded by a very large Indian family (a couple of uncles, mums, plenty of kids). We are in a six seat area, made up of 2 x 3 berth high beds facing each other, folded up to make benches. 12 of us occupy it. Luckily the family are really friendly, and whilst not speaking much English we all introduce ourselves and manage a bit of a chat. We soon discover what all the luggage is for, when an enormous bag is opened up to reveal dozens of packets of foods - chapatis, chutneys, dried beans, relishes - all is pulled out by the mums and breakfast is served. We feel a bit ashamed of our biscuits and crisps. After five hours we make it to Jaipur. Very numb bums.
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| The crazy family we bunked up with |
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| This is not a prison. This is relative luxury compared to standard class! |
This time we're prepared. We're booked in sleeper class again, but we are first to get on the train (who says English people always queue?) and we claim our seats - this time Matt is stretched out on a top bunk and I take up my entire 'seat' for the whole journey. I manage to get through an entire book on my Kindle, Matt does lots of sleeping.
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| Indian skill: Sleep anywhere, through any noise. |
Now old hands, we are settled into our AC Chair Car seats at 5.45 am. No food this time - but we make up for it by watching a movie on the laptop. We use earphones - no one else does - maybe they need to update the sign that says that 'passageners using transistor radios must use earphones'
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| Copyright infringement?! |
Our train to Kalka connects directly with this one - which couldn't be more different. The LP described it as a toy train - it really is (imagine the sort of train you get at a theme park). Only jam packed full of Indian school-kids who scream out the window at every tunnel (there are 80 tunnels!) and holidaying families. We again claim our seats swiftly and buy thali (set) lunches from the Indian Railways catering man. The views are fantastic. Once we have done battle with a chavvy Indian family who want our window seats - for their hyperactive children, we enjoy the journey. Bring it on India - we now know the rules of the road. Everyone is vying for a little bit more, and you just need to hold your own!
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| Me enjoying my Thali (set meal) |
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| Might have been quicker. |
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| Our toy train to Shimla, nestled in the Himalayas at 2200m |
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