Saturday 14 February 2015

Goin' slow in Caye Caulker

Greetings from Belize! After a great time in Tulum in Southern Mexico, it was time to head a bit further South and get a true taste of the flavours of the Caribbean Coast and it's go slow, what's the rush attitude.

After the border crossing from hell of Mexican queues, paperwork, heat, dodgy 'immigration' fees (can I get a receipt for that?) and nearly missing the boat... it didn't take us long to appreciate the relaxed attitude to enjoying life. But entering a country by speedboat was a great way to start!
Out of immigration, out of Mexico and into the speedboat!
Our destination was Caye Caulker, one of the islands off the coast of Belize, a Commonwealth State. It was a beautiful long, thin island that you could walk round in 2 hours - full of palm trees, playing kids, reggae music and rastafarians on the beach, One of the most instantly relaxing and safest feeling places we've ever been to.
So where are the cars?!
Day 1 was spent at the Split, a relatively new channel that has carved the island in half - making for a great spot for swimming, snorkelling, people watching and beer drinking. The local Belikin Stout is pretty damn good! 
Ja mon!
Come nightfall, it was time to get a taste of the famed rum punch - this is an old bucaneering island after all. And we worked out where all the cars were. Or weren't. The only vehicles on the island are golf carts. Taxis, minibuses - the lot. Amazing!
Life is good.
Day 2 we decided to splash out, by booking up for the Ragamuffin's day tour of three beautiful snorkelling spots, all nestling inside Belize's coral reef - a huge reef which is only second in size to the Great Barrier. Jumping on board, Cap'n Rob and the crew soon had us at ease with his Caribbean twangs and some great reggae music. We set sail for the first spot...
Cruising the Caribbean, never thought we'd do that!
Shortly after leaving the mooring, the local birdlife got a bit interested - so our fish bait was used to get the attention of some of the passing Frigates.
Slightly prehistoric looking, right?!
The first spot was pretty amazing, and was supposed to just be a warm up to test our skills. The fish were pretty impressive, but the coral was fascinating (is it a plant? an animal? it grows, but it sleeps...)
The amazing coral
Garif, our dive guide
Shoals and corals
And our new underwater camera got even more use... how are you loving this multimedia folks?
Sarah's diving skills are coming along!
Back to the boat, and we cruised to the second spot at a local fisherman's catch cleaning site - where the big fish converge. Jumping in, we were soon absolutely surrounded by huge shoals of big members of the Tuna family. Gulp!
Nosey buggers
After fighting our way through the shoal, the star attractions were waiting for us - sting rays, manta rays, eagle rays and nursing sharks. Sarah... grab the camera, I'm going in!
Feeding frenzy
Hanging around
Strike the pose...
The biggest of the nursing sharks was about 10 foot long, but they just suck meat off you - not bite it. So that's safe. Apparently.
Hey guys!
And to add to the craze of selfies (and my turtle selfie) I thought I'd try and get a ray/shark selfie...
Snap.
Dive site 2 over, we jumped back on board and headed to site 3 - the channel in the reef which opens up the Cayes to the wider ocean. This area was full of huge rays floating and gliding, little and big turtles busy eating and incredible eels and fish.
Grab shell, dude!
Chillin'
After a bit of freediving through an underwater cave at 15m depth (which took several attempts to get the nerve!) it was time to get back to the boat. Turn on the stereo. Get out the rum. And cruise home under sail... Good times.
Chur!
Our crew
Caye Caulker has been an absolute beaut. Three nights here aren't enough, but I don't think a year would be either. It's got the views of a hollywood hideaway, but the relaxed and intimate feel (and cheap prices!) of backpacker heaven.
Drink it up!
So, it's a big thumbs up from us for Belize so far! No hurry, no worry...
The honeymoon continues...

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